[ home / overboard ] [ soy / qa / raid / r ] [ int / pol ] [ craft ] [ a / an / asp / biz / mtv / r9k / tech / v / sude / x ] [ q / news / chive / rules / pass / bans / status ] [ wiki / booru / irc ]

A banner for soyjak.party

/tech/ - Soyence and Technology

Download more RAM for your Mac here
Catalog
Email
Subject
Comment
File
Password (For file deletion.)

File: IMG_20260708_155544.jpg 📥︎ (2.86 MB, 4080x3072) ImgOps

File: IMG_20260708_155529.jpg 📥︎ (2.4 MB, 4080x3072) ImgOps

 â„–34391[Quote]

How can i repair this?
Context:
Its my first time trying to repair hardware, this is from a TVRKARYAN Monitor that was assembled around March of 2006, so its 20 years old. It sparked and became unusable a few weeks ago. My teacher used to use it until it broke, they were going to throw it in the trash but they let me have it instead. It obviously doesn't work, and i didn't try plugging it back due to fearing it would spark again. I am 98% sure the issue is because of this board, because all of the soot is concentrated around here. Its my first time doing something like this so all help is appreciated. Idk what info would be useful so if i left something out like a retard tell me what i should write (and preferably where i need to look) and ill provide the info.
Note: Its a model 700P Proview electronics made squarish monitor, it has the "VESTEL" logo on it (TVRKARYAN company), its a 17 inch LCD. It might not be noticeable but there is a lot of black soot on both sites, the camera didn't capture it though.

 â„–34406[Quote]

Probably a old capacitor or CCFL lamp failed or the inverters that drive the CCFL or the transformer

 â„–34435[Quote]

Not to be a demoralizing faggot but that looks really complicated and difficult to DIY

 â„–34443[Quote]

Idk geg but i promise someone here knows

 â„–34445[Quote]

Test the voltages off the PSU first OP

 â„–34453[Quote]

>>34406
i asked an AI and it said something similar but it didnt actually help me, so i posted it here
>>34435
yeah it is
>>34445
How can i do that?

I'll post this on more tech related places on the internet and see if i can get help from there

 â„–34454[Quote]

>>34453
>How can i do that?
Multimeter across the output pins

 â„–34468[Quote]

up

 â„–34485[Quote]

>/tech/ doing repair
kino

 â„–34487[Quote]

File: reddit gem.jpg 📥︎ (33.1 KB, 504x478) ImgOps

Before you do anything else, bridge the leads of all the big electrolytic capacitors (black can-shaped things) with a screwdriver with a plastic handle to discharge them so they don't kill you

 â„–34488[Quote]

The "soot" is likely corona stain, which is fairly normal on the high voltage side of a board that old. It's not from burning, it's because the voltage causes particulate in the air to attract to certain areas and create a stain. Same thing you see on spark plugs.

I think you should re-assemble it, make sure nothing is shorted anywhere, plug it in, try to turn it on, and carefully measure if voltage is coming out of that board. It's a power supply board. Be very careful around those giant capacitors, they are dangerous

 â„–34489[Quote]

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (117.89 KB, 430x192) ImgOps

This might be a good place to test with your meter with the power on

 â„–34490[Quote]

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (53.49 KB, 202x138) ImgOps

This polyfuse handles the mains input current. Check for continuity between the two leads marked by the squiggly line with the thing unplugged. As always, make sure the caps are not storing energy before you touch those parts and wear gloves anyway.

You mentioned it "sparked and became unusable." Do you know any more details than that? Where the spark was, what was happening when it sparked, unusable as in totally dead no signs of life or do indicator lamps turn on and the screen is just blank?

 â„–34491[Quote]

OP did you abandon the thread or did you already electrocute yourself

 â„–34521[Quote]

>>34454
i dont have a multimeter, I'll buy one since i feel like it will be useful in general
>>34487
the monitor has been unplugged for several weeks so its fine (and i touched them before this thread and i didnt die so its ok geg)
>>34488
I dont wanna try turning it on because it will probably spark again
>>34490
I dont, it has been completely unplugged since the incident since i dont wanna risk damaging it further in case there is a short circuit

I'm kinda busy rn but i'll try all of this in a few days, thanks for the advice.

 â„–34545[Quote]

>>34521
Yeah a multimeter is an incredibly useful tool, I can't believe more people don't have them. The AN8008 is the budget beginner multimeter to buy right now

 â„–34714[Quote]

>>34391 (OP)
I decided to reverse image search OP's picrel and I found his Reddit account. It is quite disturbing. PLEASE DO NOT INTERACT WITH THIS WEIRDO AND DONT GIVE ADVICE
First of all, his most liked comment contains a thumbnail joking about 'ly. He goes on to defend him by saying that he's "gemmy" and actually it's all irony whilst also advocating for HOSTILE splinters. (This is all you need to know about this, let's not talk anymore about him…)
He is turkish by the way.
He frequents many soyreddit colonies and even uses their lingo. Tuff mango phonk and rapeson. All of them. He regularly talks to the local tranny users there and even converses with them.
Remember that he's turkish? He even made a post advocating for squatting toilets since he has digestion issues, GEG. If you glue it all together you get this image.
>EXTREMELY SWARTHY turkNIGGER
>shits everyday by squatting down
>doesn't wipe since he is a muslim
>even posted his uncleaned shit encrusted toilet-hole on Reddit
>unironically posts on Reddit and even attention whores for karma
>uses 'oyspeak everywhere for updoots, thus making him sound like a retard
>100% a fail troll, makes shitty "jokes" about topics which are serious
>frequents reddit soy colonies
>hides being an offsiter
>he advocates for transgenderism and faggotry in many posts
>he is also a POWER SCALER and debates about SNCA with cacas
>he also participates in useless SNCA reddit nigger wars
Please, OP, explain this. Why are you like this?

 â„–34739[Quote]

>>34714
>Alogging
Also what is 'ly anyway

 â„–34742[Quote]

>>34739
I think he means loli? I'm not sure

 â„–34745[Quote]

File: 231393 - soybooru.com - ai….png 📥︎ (2.71 MB, 1254x1254) ImgOps

>>34714
KEK do uttp764failtrollpedonusois really..?

 â„–34753[Quote]

>>34739
I thnk he's talking about goonclown

 â„–34852[Quote]

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (311.75 KB, 1170x594) ImgOps

>>34742
>Not being able to spell half of a 4-letter word

 â„–34859[Quote]

File: 1782062716883n.mp4 📥︎ (1.59 MB, 464x688) ImgOps


 â„–34880[Quote]

>>34714
marge i think you misunderstood
>thumbnail joking about scully
here is the thumbnail for context, its made by a soytuber, and its a ridicule of those "worse then hitler/epstein??!" clickbaits
>called scully "gemmy"
i called the video gemmy, which isnt a failtroll, and i called it gemmy due to the intro which was a ~2 minute long sequence of 1337 leet hax0r known as snarky snappy communicvating with agent nophono, and nowhere in the video did the dude praise or even talk about scully.
>hostile splinter
he's talking about the swede website (the one that gets censored on here)
>TVRKARYAN
we wuz aryan first ev&oe
>Uses plebbit colonies
im a nusoi, sorry man kill me ig
>doesnt wipe
marge i wipe and im not muslim
>posted his own toilet
that was a random pic i got off reddit
>attention whores for karma
marge?
>sounds like a retard
ev&oe being retarded is aryan in tvrkey
>advocates for transgenderism and faggotry
i never did this
>power scaler
i made a joke post about where nophono would scale mate no way you thought i was serious on that
>makes light of serious topics
what i did was literally the same as making a slopjak and making him say ">im a pedo nigger warsaws rapist of the year award nigger shitskin nigger nigger" and that is clearly not advocating for pedophilia

i think you just took some things way to serious man

 â„–34881[Quote]

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (272.22 KB, 1207x291) ImgOps

>>34880
the image didnt load mb, here it is

 â„–34882[Quote]

>>34880
You're a Turkish soy colony redditor. That alone makes me hate you.

 â„–34883[Quote]

>>34882
ok ig
hope you have a way to let your anger out in a clean way and have a good day

 â„–34885[Quote]

File: IMG_20260717_143046.jpg 📥︎ (4.69 MB, 3072x4080) ImgOps

File: IMG_20260717_143007.jpg 📥︎ (3.45 MB, 4080x3072) ImgOps

also i came back here since i took a clearer pic of the faulty board and found a broken component, also bought a multimeter, though idk where to go from here

 â„–34887[Quote]

>>34882
reppeying again because im an obsessed gringo o algo

i mean from your reppey you got 2 issues which me which are:
1: im turkish (not much i can do to change that geg)
2: i use plebbit soy colonies
now the 2nd one is interesting, because i usually dont post on here but i like the soysphere and contributing gems to it, and since im not welcome here, i thought "why not contribute by posting on other websites and splinters"
i mean that's my line of reasoning at least
and the only social media platform i use is plebbit so if i stop using that, ill just stop interacting with the soysphere all together which is a net loss for both of us i think

 â„–34888[Quote]

why spend time fixing shitel laptop doe. like other turkish manifucturers (casper etc.) its probably shit, BIOS is locked behind paywall and will probably burn because the engineer from Rize used shitty materials to design it to cut production costs

 â„–34889[Quote]

>>34888
its a monitor
though you are right its utter shit and is cheaper to buy a new one, im trying to fix it as a learning oppurtunity
I started learning C recently but i wanted to learn how electricity/soldering and all these hardware things work in deeper level as well, thats why im trying to repair this, like an educational challenge

 â„–34890[Quote]

>>34889
If thats the goal wouldnt buying a more modern laptop to fix be a better choice? (I am talking about 2012-2020 modern). There are a lot of broken down old PCs on sahibinden for 1000-2000tls

 â„–34899[Quote]

>>34890
arent those broken due to the failures inside the chips? so you would need to change the chips

 â„–34907[Quote]

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (99.95 KB, 239x215) ImgOps

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (133.4 KB, 1000x450) ImgOps

Yep there's your problem

I'd say next step is to find a capacitor of the same capacitance and voltage rating and replace it. Are there more markings on the can?

Idk if you want to get into soldering, but that part is big and has only two massive leads, so it's not completely out of the question that you could use wire clippers to trim the leads as close to the can as you can, clean them off, then clamp in a new component or twist the leads to connect it.

Good enough for a test at least, this method is a bit ghetto btw.

Important: electrolytic capacitors are polar components, meaning you have to put them in the right way around. You can't switch the leads when you install the new one. The capacitor will have a stripe that marks the negative side, or cathode. That should connect to the side of the symbol that has a curved plate, with the positive side connected to the side with a straight plate.

 â„–34908[Quote]

>>34889
Self-improvementCHAD, it's a good skill to have, I get a lot of mileage out of it. Lots of people are good at mechanics, few are good at electronics

 â„–34966[Quote]

>>34907
thanks for the tip, im justr afraid that other components might have failed as well, and i also dont understand why the bottom of the capacitor blew up instead of the top

 â„–35003[Quote]

>>34966
Why the bottom blew up: That looks like a failure due to age and corrosion rather than overvolting and boiling the electrolyte, which would have burst the top of the cap by design. Probably some stuff corroded away on the bottom and the electrolyte evaporated away o algo.

If you want to be positive about failure of other stuff downstream from that capacitor rather than doing guesswork, you'd basically have to get a circuit diagram and analyze it and trace around testing components adjacent to that system. With some experience, you can kind of do this on instinct most of the time. You aren't there yet. You can probably find some cheap kits to build your own switched mode power supply, which would be good soldering practice and also a good way to learn the basic components involved in this type of circuit and some theory as to how it works. And how to read a circuit diagram.

Since you're looking to educate yourself, I'd try that. Otherwise I'd replace that capacitor, cross my fingers, and send it. If that capacitor failed short (the bad way) it would have probably thrown the circuit breaker of the outlet it was plugged into. Plugging it in again with a healthy capacitor in that spot most likely won't damage anything that wasn't already damaged.

 â„–35004[Quote]

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (463.53 KB, 694x788) ImgOps

Some very quick explanation of the theory here:
This is the input stage of the power supply. Its job is safety, surge protection, removing some noise and transients, rectifying the AC current to DC, and smoothing out that DC with a big capacitor.

The blue circle should be the connection to the power cable that plugs into the wall.

The purple circle is a fuse that cuts off current from the blue circle if things go wrong. It may have thrown, you should test for continuity between these points. This might be what has "sparked" when the device failed.

The red circle is a full-bridge rectifier. You can look up how these work. It's basically a package of four power diodes which turns AC into noisy DC.

The yellow circle is the largest capacitor on the board, the failed one. The job of the largest cap is almost always to smooth out the DC created by the rectifier, the red circle. The big fat circuit trace connected to its cathode (the curved line on the symbol) is your DC ground plane. That will be your "negative" reference for the rest of the power supply. The other side is your main DC positive.

The rest of the power supply takes this DC, chops it back up into high-frequency AC again, feeds it through transformers, and uses something called pulse width modulation (PWM) to create all the voltages and frequencies your device requires.

 â„–35005[Quote]

File: ClipboardImage.png 📥︎ (156.51 KB, 450x450) ImgOps

A common technique to diagnose is to use a bench DC supply like this to power your device instead of your power supply board, and remove the offending board entirely until it's fixed or replaced. However this won't power any fluorescent lamps or high-voltage stuff if that is needed. You basically look up what voltage your old board put out, set the dials, and hook it up to the rest of the device and see if it powers on. It also has its own short circuit protection, it won't burn up if you accidentally cross the inputs. You can even set what current level causes the protection to kick in.



[Return][Catalog][Go to top][Post a Reply]
Delete Post [ ]
[ home / overboard ] [ soy / qa / raid / r ] [ int / pol ] [ craft ] [ a / an / asp / biz / mtv / r9k / tech / v / sude / x ] [ q / news / chive / rules / pass / bans / status ] [ wiki / booru / irc ]